|
This species of tortoise is found in Pakistan and Russia. One of the smaller of the tortoise family, they can grow from 5-7" in length with an average weight of 1 -3 pounds. Although probably one of the dullest in appearance these tortoises have tons of personality! Since they do not grow very large they are easier to house then many of the other tortoises
Although you can use a large fish tank to house this type of tortoise, building a cage that will accommodate them is preferred for long term care . As they come from very arid climates, the climate where you live will determine the housing you need. For example: Western Washington has a very humid climate, consequently a Russian tortoise would not do well outside, other than during the dry month of August. On the other hand, Eastern Washington gets much drier during the summer and would allow for longer summer outings. Indoor enclosures are necessary for Washington. A large wooden box or a child's large wading pool, in the corner of a room can be used. The minimum enclosure size can be determined by multiplying the length of the tortoise by eight (bigger is better). Young tortoises should have a basking site temperature of approximately 95º F, the overall enclosure temperature should be approximately in the 80'sº F during the day and at night can drop to the mid 70'sº F. During the winter, daytime temperatures can be approximately 5 to 10º F lower, but a basking site of approximately 85 to 90º F is needed. There are many different heating units available, we use infrared ceramic heat emitters (make sure to follow the manufactures guidelines) which do not produce light and are very long lasting, placed at one end of the enclosure to provide a heat gradient so that the tortoise can regulate its own body temperature. All heating units should be attached to an adjustable thermostat. The heating unit(s) should then be placed so that the tortoise cannot injure itself or knock the unit(s) down. By placing thermometers at both the hot end and the warm end, you can double check temperatures easily. We also recommend that a smoke alarm be set up in the enclosure. UVB fluorescent light must be provided for good shell growth and development. These lights should be placed within 12 inches of the top of the tortoises shell for proper UVB absorption. ESU Reptile® now makes a "Desert 7.0 " bulb that works well for tortoises. The lights can be set on a timer so that the tortoise gets approximately 12-14 hours of light during summer months and approximately 10 hours during winter months. Make sure that the room and enclosure have good air circulation and are low in humidity. There are many different choices of substrates that can be used, such as Carefresh™ a recycled paper flake, Critter Country™ a pelleted grass, alfalfa pellets for rabbits which are also edible, Aspen wood shavings, or even newspaper. Which ever you use, it is very important to make sure that it stays clean and dry at all times. We have found that they really like the Carefresh™ for burrowing in. Outdoor enclosure's for summer time, should be well built with solid walls and bottom with drainage (do not use chain link or wire), that extend at least one foot underground (Russian tortoises love to burrow and are excellent diggers), protective screen tops to keep out predator's and other wildlife, shade cloth to cut down sun exposure and additional shelters (if need be, a heated shelter) inside the pen to get out of the sun and elements.
Russian Tortoises are primarily vegetarians, excessive amounts of protein and vitamin D3 in their diet is very harmful and will cause improper growth of the scutes (the plates of the shell) and a variety of other very serious health problems. About 80% of a Russian tortoise diet is greens and grasses with a high calcium content, such as: kale, collard greens, mustard greens, clover, romaine lettuce, dandelion, beet tops, carrot tops, timothy hay, alfalfa hay and grass clippings (all pesticide and fertilizer free). Fruits and vegetables make up approximately 20% of the diet. A mix of the following can be used: carrots, zucchini, yellow squash, green beans, broccoli, figs, apricots, oranges, lemons, tangerines, papaya, pineapple and cantaloupe. All foods should be chopped into bite sized pieces approximately the size of the head. Generally tortoises get most of their water from their greens but with the introduction of commercial diets it is important that tortoises on these diets or ones that are being supplemented with these diets have water everyday and removed after the tortoise has is done.
The water dish can raise the humidity to high in the cage at times. The water dish should be shallow enough that the tortoise can dip its head down into the dish without having to climb up on the dish. Tortoises don't swim and they will drown if the water is too deep.Young tortoises being fed a primarily fresh diet should be given water every other day and older tortoises a couple of times a week. Any fouled water must be removed immediately. For tortoises kept indoors, the addition of calcium carbonate to their diet is very important and can be sprinkled on their food 3 times a week (approx. 1% of diet by weight) and every 2 weeks with a supplement containing D3 such as Herptivite® or Vionate®. All tortoise dishes and utensils should be kept away from human food preparation areas and be cleaned with a 5% bleach and water solution. Always wash your hands before and after handling. We also recommend reading: "General Care and Maintenance of Popular Tortoises" by Philippe de Vosjoli.
|
|
