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Everyone enjoys a beautiful, well maintained aquarium, but sometimes getting started can be confusing. We've put together this information sheet to help you get started without the confusion and hopefully without the headaches that most people are faced with. There is a major rule in getting started, that is : If you try to cut corners on equipment you will probably spend a lot more money in the end.
1. Location:
Decide on a location with as little direct sunlight as possible, away from windows, doors and heavy foot traffic. This will help reduce algae build up, temperature changes and breakage. You will need an electrical outlet away from drips and splashes and a solid, smooth, water resistant surface that can support at least 9#'s per gallon. (i.e. a 20 gallon tank will = 20 x 9 = 180#'s).
2.Tank and Hood:
A small tank and hood can be just as expensive as a larger one and a larger one will generally have less maintenance and fewer headaches. The tank should be well made with no flaws in the seal or glass. The hood should fit the tank securely and cover the entire tank to keep fish in and evaporation to a minimum. The light fixture in the hood should be centrally located to light the entire tank with the fixture itself well protected from splashes and humidity. There are two main types of fixtures:
1. Fluorescent-this type of lighting produces very little heat, aids in plant growth and shows off the colors of the fish.
2. Incandescent-this type of lighting is less expensive, produces some heat (not enough for tropicals), does not show off the fishes color or aid in plant growth and the bulbs burn out more frequently.
3. Filters:
There are many types of filters but we will only cover the two most commonly used.
1. Undergravel: This is a plate that is placed over almost the entire bottom of the tank underneath the gravel. It tends to be the most natural. It uses the gravel to form a living bacterial bed to break down the ammonia produced by the fish. Undergravel filters work the best in a tropical heated tank as the bacteria that breaks down the ammonia thrives at those temperatures. This filter is powered in one of two ways:
1. Airpump: air is pumped down two small tubes with airstones at the bottom, inside of two large tubes attached to the filter plate. As the air bubbles rise back up to the surface within the two large tubes, it draws water down through the gravel and filter plate and back up through the tubes. This process oxygenates the water and the bacteria in the gravel. When purchasing an air pump make sure that it is quiet durable and strong enough for the tank. Inexpensive pumps tend to be noisy and burn out quickly. When using an air pump you will also need to purchase airline tubing ( to run the air from the pump to the gang valves and into the tank), gang valves ( to branch the air out to the tubes and to bleed off extra air so that it does not put back pressure on the pump and burn it out prematurely) and a check valve ( in case of power failure this stops water from flowing down into the pump and shorting it out).
2. Powerhead: there is no need for tubing, gang valves or check valves as the powerhead is adjustable and sits inside the tank under the water on top of one of the large filter plate tubes. It is a lot more powerful than an airpump as it draws water directly down through the gravel and filter plate and up through the tube and they have the ability to have an air intake tube above the surface of the water to produce air bubbles. They are very quiet and more efficient than an air pump.
2. Outside Power Filter: This type works well in an unheated tank for goldfish or even when the fish are very large and dirty. It draws water out of the tank, through a cartridge and then it pours back into the tank. The cartridges to these should be cleaned and/or replaced on a routine basis. Make sure to get one of good quality as they are quieter and more efficient.
4. Heater:
The size of the heater depends directly on the size of your tank. At least 5 watts per gallon (i.e. 20 gallon tank = 5 X 20 = 100 watt heater). In the case of long tanks it may be necessary to put two heaters in one at each end for even heating. Make sure that the heater is not in contact with the gravel, rocks or plants. When doing water changes or when the water level is low, make sure the heater is unplugged as uneven temperatures on the glass of the heater can cause it to shatter.
5. Gravel:
Use only gravel meant for freshwater aquarium use. Never use coral or gravel with coral or shell fragments in it for freshwater aquariums. They can change the pH and water hardness. Rinse the gravel before placing it in the aquarium. If you are using an undergravel filter you will need approximately 2# of gravel per gallon of water (i.e. 20 gallon tank = 2 x 20 = 40# of gravel). If you will be using an outside power filter you will only need approximately 1# per gallon.
6. Decorations:
Use only decorations meant for freshwater aquarium use. Do not use coral or shells (even the ones with special coatings, that can chip or wear off) they are meant for marine or brackish aquarium use only. Place the decorations around the back and sides solidly, so that they can not fall over and crush your fish. Use lots of decorations such as plastic and live plants, decorative rocks and even ceramic ornaments. The better decorated the tank the more hiding places there are and the happier the fish will be.
7. Thermometer:
Place the thermometer for easy access and visibility. Freshwater tropical aquariums should have an average temperature between 76-78 degrees. This is an overall average temperature, because of the fluctuations of temperature in the house between day and night the temperatures in the tank might go slightly higher or lower depending on the time of day.
8. Water Conditioners:
It is important to add water conditioner (dechlorinator) to the water before adding fish. This will neutralize the chlorine and buffer the water for the fish. Letting water stand over night does not work anymore as the type of chlorine's used in public water do not evaporate. DO NOT USE filtered or bottled water. Filtered water is to soft and acidic and bottled water tends to be to hard and alkaline, you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get it all balanced. Another good thing to add to the water initially and when ever the tank goes through a partial water change is some Bacter Plus or Cycle, both will seed your filter with living bacteria that will help to break down the ammonia that the fish produce.
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